Tawang - The Country of Buddha

   
     16th March 2k17. I came early to Howrah Jn. After meeting with all co-travellers, we came to our platform to get into our train, 12345 Saraighat Express. It was at 4 pm. Our train started to run. The next day at 9 am,  our train reached Kamakhya Jn. The next station was Guhawati. So, we became ready to get off. We reached Guwahati at the right time. On that day, we took shelter in a hotel near the station named 'Prince'.

   The next morning, we woke up early. The destination was Bhalukpong, 226 km on road distance from Guhawati. To receive one of our co-traveller, we entered the IIT G campus. After receiving him, our car started to run through NH 37. This NH is totally different from others. Two sides of the road are covered with green trees.

     After some time, we crossed the Brahmaputra river. The river had lost its flowing water in the winter. It was looking like a field. Many different types of green bushes got birth there & the cattle had got a grazing field on the river.

   After crossing the Kaziranga more, the car took the way to Tezpur. At 3 pm we reached Tezpur. There is a three-headed more in Tezpur. Our car took the way towards Bhalukpong, 60 km away from Tezpur. The road was covered with a big forest of Shal & Shegun. After some time, we came near the Kameng river, which got birth somewhere in Arunachal Pradesh started to flow in search of Sea & got Bramhaputra. For the maximum rivers of the northeast, Brahmaputra is like a sea.

   There is a village in Arunachal Pradesh named, Kameng. We were going through the west Kameng. After crossing Kalipara military camp we entered our destination. The entrance gate at Bhalukpong is really beautiful.

  The military checkpoint is near to the gate. Military men checked our luggage. We went to the military camp to get permits. After doing some paperwork at last we received our permits. It was evening. We came to our hotel named, Kameng Inn. It is situated at one corner of the town.

 

   I got a room on the 2nd floor. Keeping luggage in the room, I came to the balcony room & became to enjoy the full natural scenario. The town was looking awesome.  For heavy cold wind, I came back to my room. Then, I joined in gossip with my co-travellers about Arunachal Pradesh. Up to 1916, this place had no name. The British named it NEFA ie. North-East Frontier Agency. It 1972 it was renamed as Arunachal Pradesh. 'Arun' means Sun. As the state is situated at the eastern corner of the country, so it gets the chance of seeing the sunlight at first in comparison to the other states of India. This is why it is named like this. In 1987 on 20th February this state is recognized as a state of India by the Indian Government.

   The night was very cold because of the heavy thunderstorm. But the next morning was pleasant. Sweet sunshine made the weather too much comfortable. Kameng River is known as Jiya Bhareli here. Local people say only 'Bhareli.' On that day our destination was Dirang. We started our journey at 9 am. In the way the weather became cloudy.

  In the evening, we reached there. It was very cold weather. We sheltered in a wooden guest house.

  The next morning, at 6 am. we left the guest house & started our journey by car. It was a white-coloured tempo car. As time had gone, we left lower, upper Siang, Baisakhi & Shangrila military tents. After some time the natural scenic beauty of the two sides of the car changed. The white layered ground came instead of green. Snow-covered trees came instead of greenish trees. Most of those trees were Pine. Some pine trees losing all leaves had taken bulb-like structures. The whole scenery was really amazing.

   Our tempo stopped suddenly at a place, 13680 ft from MSL. Later we came to know that, at our left, there was a lake named Paradise. But the lake had no significance at that time, as the whole area where we looked was white. We at that stage forgetting about everything started playing with snow like children. I was making snowballs & was throwing to the others. Others also started to do the same. At that place, our driver did a peculiar job. He tied each wheel with ropes for extra grip.
 

  Meanwhile, snow falling started. With mild sunshine, it was looking majestic. There were snow walls of 2-3 ft on the two sides of the road. At last, to respect the request of the soldiers we entered the tempo again. Our car started to go. As the road was opened one or two days ago, we started our journey, there were no other tourist cars on the road. The only vehicles that we passed were military trucks. The roads were like hairpin loops. We saw many green military tents beside the road. But the only entrance of the tents was green other sides were totally covered with white snow. As we were covering distance, the quantity of os snow got decreased. It was a 20 km long snow-covered road that we passed. It was a terribly beautiful journey. We came to Yashbant Garh. There is a temple made in memory of Yashbant Singh, a great martyr of 1962 indo-china war.

 As we were going behind time we didn't get out of the car near famous Jung Falls. At 4.30 pm in the afternoon, at last, we reached Tawang, 10200 ft above MSL. The most beautiful hill town of Arunachal is this Tawang. In the cold light of the afternoon, the town attracted my mind like a magnet. Statue of Buddha, Colourful flags with printed quotes of Buddha, commonly known as Tarchok, Gumpha - these are the components, you will find in most of the places of the town. These represent Tawang as a peaceful town. In reality, it is more than that. Our tempo came to our guest house named, Dolma Khangsar Guest House.

   Just after getting out of the car, it had felt the welcoming cold of the town which was 5 degree. I got my room on the 3rd floor. the room was protected with room heater & normal temp water. Drinking little water, I came to the bed & laid down keeping the quilt on my body. At 9 pm we got a call for dinner. We came to the dining room. It was too cold that we could not sit on the chairs even those were of plastics. In the standing condition, we took roti with curry. At 10 pm it was load shedding. As usual, the heater stopped working. The temperature was falling very quickly. I spent the coldest night of my life.

  Though I was anxious to enjoy the sunrise, cloudy weather ruined it. So, I was in bed till late morning. The whole town is covered with mountains. The famous Tawang Monastery, which is the biggest monastery of India & 2nd biggest in the world is at walking distance from our guest house. Tibet Border is near to Tawang. We saw many quotes printed drums beside the road. The tradition is to round it 3 times.

   After entering the monastery, we saw a 26 ft metallic Buddha statue in the central place. There is a huge place in front of the statue for prayer. We saw Buddhists of all age groups working together peacefully. Starting from the maintaining of the monastery to collecting wood piece as fuel, cooking & serving food to clothes making & washing ...they do all types of work together. I met a lama of 85 years old.

  He is here since his 7 years old. From him, I came to know that 14th Dalai Lama in 1959 when there were political problems in Tibet, came here for safety from Lhasa by crossing Bum La pass. By the way, 6th Dalai Lama was born here. There is a sky catching pole with colourful quote flags in the monastery. It is spreading the quotes of Buddha throughout the town by flipping. The monastery is the best place for peace. After the monastery, we went to the Buddha Park. There is a 20 ft height altar in the park. Upon which metallic Buddha is meditating. This statue has a high range of attracting power. Forgetting all, I starred at the statue for a long time. The Big statue beneath the blue sky was very much perfect in that slightly cold peaceful environment. From here, the view of the monastery is amazing.
 

  After the park, we went to Tawang War Memorial. It is basically made in memory of brave martyrs of Indo-China war. The orchid ground, in front of the memorial, is really nice. It was afternoon. We waited there for watching the Light & Sound show. The show was started with the captions of the natural beauty of Tawang. Then, it showed some pictures of the Indo-China war. Lonely night as if created the 1962 war environment.

  Tawang is totally different than other major hill cities in Himalaya. There is no factory here. So, the air is free from pollution. It is only mixed with the quotes of Buddha. The life & attitude of the local people is very simple. Most of them live on farming. Unfortunately, we were unable to go to Bum La pass. The roads were closed because of heavy rainfall. So, we decided to spend the days in Tawang. Though Sunlight comes first in Arunachal, the light of the modern world didn't come here properly.

   While walking on the street, I met a local carpenter namedLam Sering with his wife Doma. Knowing me as a tourist, he made me sit on the log. We had a long gossip. There are many local tribes in Arunachal. Some of them are Apatani, Wangchu, Monpa. In Tawang, the majority is Monpa.
He is also a Monpa. All of them are Buddhist. Till now, there are many villages in the hills of Arunachal, which are purely ancient type. Nowadays, some of Monpa started to go to school. He had started studying Hindi & English. In the wedding, they use garlands of buddha quoted clothes. By the exchanging of the garlands, the wedding gets an end.

  Next day was homecoming day. In this 2 or 3 days, I had fallen in love with the town. The simplicity of the hill people always attracts me. Tawang was not an exception. Feeing pain in heart, I got up in the car. As the ice melted, I didn't find that terrible beauty with the roads. But the beauty of Sela Pass was till fixed. In the returning route, we got out of the car near Jung falls.
 

 Of course, it is a beautiful fall. But with a broken heart, I was unable to enjoy its beauty. Staying that night at Bomdila, we caught the homecoming train on the next day.

Hope you loved it.